Welcome to my personal blog page.

From time to time I get oil or auto related questions or read something 
on an automotive forum and think I need address it here.

My comments here are my own and have nothing to do with Amsoil. 

I have been an ASE master tech for over 35 years so I know 
a little about oils and vehicles, trust me.

Short cuts to topics:

The best way to change your oil.

What good thing is missing in your oil?

One debate I have heard most of my life is the question of 
what's the best way change your oil, cold or hot ?

There is only one correct answer, hot and here is why.

Your typical  oil filter (non Amsoil) only filters most particles 
over 25 microns so all the 0-25 dirt particles are still in your oil 
and not your filter. You want to get all those contaminants 
out of your oil and the best way to do that is to run the engine
to operating temp, coming in from driving is the best way.
Drain the oil as soon as possible after stopping the engine.
Yes it will be hot but now is the best time.
Get the filter loose and let it drain too, let it all drain as 
long a possible, I like to let it drain overnight if I can as that
will really let it drip out all it can. If your schedule won't allow 
that then do as long as you can so you get as much out
as possible. 
Draining it hot like this allows the suspended contaminants
in the oil to quickly flush out with the oil and hot oil is thin
and moves quickly so you get the most for your effort.
Getting more dirt out means your new oil starts out cleaner.
All this also applies to motorcycles, riding mowers and small 
engines as many have no oil filter and/or have a small sump so 
getting all the dirt out is very important.

The other side.
The opposite argument I have heard it to let the engine set all 
night and drain it in the morning when all the dirt has settled in the 
bottom and all the oil in the upper parts have dripped
down. This is flawed thinking as now the oil is thick and slow
and all the dirt is literally glued to the bottom of the oil pan.
Cold oil moves slow and it will drip and drip and it will 
leave alot of dirt behind.

A couple of oil change tips.
I like disposable gloves but they don't offer much protection
from heat so use heavy/thick rubber gloves to pull the plug
and loosen the filter so you don't get a burn.

Look at your oil pan, some cars and trucks have oil plugs
that may be "up hill" when the vehicle is jacked up and 
this prevents all the oil from draining out.
You may want to lower the vehicle after pulling the plug to 
better drain it. I have personally had to do this and in some cases 
you might want to tip it to one side if it has a side drain plug or lower 
it down with one wheel on a block to angle it to drain better.

I like to fill oil filters up if possible before installing, if you have 
an angled or horizontal filter you may not be able to fill it up but 
put as much as practical in it before installing it, some oil is better
than none. Most oil filters are the direct route for all of your 
engines oil so starting up with no oil in the filter lets your engine starve
for oil for a short time and that's never good.

Always check to be sure your old oil filter gasket didn't stick
and stay on your engine, if it does and you don't remove it you will 
likely have a big oil leak.
Always put some oil on your new oil filter gasket so it doesn't
bind and tightens up smoothly so you don't have a leak.

If you use a strap type wrench to remove your old oil filter
you are best to use it at the top or at the bottom of the 
filter as it's les likely to crush at those points.
If your old filter is over tight/stuck and you use a strap wrench
in the middle it can crush it and then you can have a 
real mess trying to get it off.

You should use your hands to tighten your new oil filter if
possible, snug is good, no need to grunt and groan and really 
cram it on as tight is tight. If it's in an awkward place 
and you need a wrench the best thing if possible is a cap type 
oil filter wrench that fits over the end of the filter like a socket wrench.

If you don't have one or your filter won't accept one 
and you can't get it tight by hand then use a strap wrench but only
at the end/bottom and be careful to not over tighten or 
kink/crush your new oil filter as it's easy to do.

Doing it right will pay off in the long run.


Need to look up your vehicle to see what 
oils you need ?


A little known fact:

Many years ago they cut the amount of  ZDDP in motor oil.
What is this you ask?
Its zinc and phos and it's an anti wear additive that helps protect your
engine and it's especially important if you have flat tappets
(like all the older hot rods and vintage cars had).

Amsoil offers several oils with aprox twice the normal levels of this important additive in them. Just because an oil is synthetic doesn't
mean it will protect your flat tappets and camshaft from wear/failure.
Many synthetics sold at auto parts stores are designed for passenger cars 
but not high performance engines and lack enough of this 
important additive.

Here is a link to an article that will show you what is what and why it was changed. There is a link to a TSB at the bottom of the article which will show you which Amsoil oils have high levels of this additive and the amounts in each oil.

Zinc and flat tappets.


For more info about anything Amsoil go here.

 

What's the best way to change oil. How do I change my oil, hot or cold oil change.
Should I change my oil when hot or cold. Let my oil drip out overnight.
Good way to change my engine oil. Drain contaminants out of my cars oil..
Best way to drain oil or best way to change oil.

What's missing in my motor oil, what additive is missing from my motor oil.
Anti wear additives removed from oil. Lower zinc levels in motor oil.
Oil with high zinc additive, super heavy duty racing oil with high zinc.
Amsoil has more anti wear additive. Oil with better protection.